Summer Tricks Save Time in Kitchen

The spirit of summer is relaxation in the kitchen as well as outside. This is the time to call on the tricks of the trade. All of these recipes have little dodges to save time, and all can be doubled or tripled with ease.

Did you know, for instance, that melon is quite transformed by a touch of balsamic vinegar? Add a little Japanese aji mirin sweet rice wine, or simply a dash of sugar (small quantities are important) and in seconds you have a most presentable first course. ( Aji mirin is available in Asian markets.)

Another useful tip is to cut fish fillets into diagonal strips called goujonettes . (The name comes from the French goujons , a type of little fish.) Not only does the fish look attractive, but it cooks more evenly and you can use whatever fresh fillets are available such as flounder, perch or trout, as well as the more expensive sole. Just be careful not to overcook the more delicate types like catfish.

In this recipe the fish is cooked gently with butter in its own juices, then served with thinly sliced fennel, also cooked slowly so it becomes tender without browning. Celery would be a good substitute if fennel is hard to find. A wine sauce with basil and tomato binds ingredients, which are served on a bed of green fettuccine. The pasta, if you follow my example, will be homemade by the corner store.

It was another corner store, the ice cream parlor, which suggested a shortcut to dessert. Ginger ice cream can be made from scratch, as described in my recipe. But if you’re really pushed for time, buy a tub of vanilla and let it sit until it softens. Then tip it into a chilled bowl and beat in the powdered and candied ginger. Place it back in the freezer to firm while you serve the rest of the dinner.

SIMPLE DINNER FOR 4 OR MORE

Melon Salad With Balsamic Vinegar Goujonettes of Sole With Fennel and Basil Ginger Ice Cream Suggested wine: Light white French Muscadet or domestic Sauvignon Blanc

MELON SALAD WITH BALSAMIC

VINEGAR

1 (2-pound) melon

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sweet rice wine, or 1/4 teaspoon sugar

Salt, pepper

1 small head leaf lettuce

Several mint leaves

Halve melon and discard seeds. Cut away skin. Slice flesh into 1-inch cubes.

Mix vinegar, wine and salt and pepper to taste in bowl. Add melon. Toss to mix. Taste to adjust for seasonings. Melon can be covered and refrigerated up to 1 day before serving.

Just before serving, arrange lettuce leaves on individual plates. Divide melon salad among leaves. Cut mint leaves into fine shreds. Scatter over melon. Serve immediately before herbs darken. For different presentation, melon can be sliced into long thin wedges and arranged like fans on plates. Makes 4 servings.

GOUJONETTES OF SOLE

WITH FENNEL AND BASIL

2 tablespoons butter

2 bulbs fennel, thinly sliced

Salt, pepper

1 1/2 pounds sole fillets

12 ounces fresh green fettuccine, or 8 ounces dried green fettuccine

1 cup white wine

1 cup whipping cream

1 small bunch fresh basil, coarsely chopped

1 small bunch fresh chives, chopped

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in saucepan. Add fennel and salt and pepper to taste. Press piece of foil on top. Cover and cook gently 20 to 25 minutes until very tender. Do not let fennel brown.

Wash and dry fish. Cut into 3/8-inch strips. Fennel and sole can be refrigerated up to 4 hours.

Cook fettuccine in large pan of boiling, salted water, allowing 8 to 10 minutes for dried pasta or 3 to 5 minutes for fresh pasta. Drain. Rinse thoroughly with hot water.

Meanwhile, reheat fennel over low heat. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in skillet. Season sole to taste with salt and pepper. Add to skillet. Cover and cook gently, stirring occasionally, 3 to 4 minutes or until fish stiffens and turns white without browning.

Lift fish out with slotted spoon and keep warm. Add wine to skillet. Boil until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Stir in cream. Boil 2 minutes. Stir in basil and chives. Taste to adjust for seasonings.

Arrange bed of fettuccine on each individual plate. Spoon fennel on top. Add fish. Spoon sauce over. Sprinkle with tomatoes. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Note: This recipe is also good with scallops or shrimp.

GINGER ICE CREAM

2 ounces candied ginger

6 egg yolks

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons ground ginger

3 cups milk

3/4 cup half and half

Pour boiling water over candied ginger. Leave until soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain, dry and chop.

Whisk together egg yolks, sugar and ground ginger. Bring milk to boil in saucepan. Whisk into egg yolk mixture. Return custard to pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, just until finger leaves clear train when drawn across back of spoon dipped in custard. Do not boil or custard will curdle. Pour into bowl. Add candied ginger. Leave to cool. Stir in half and half. Chill in refrigerator until very cold.

Freeze mixture in churn freezer until stiff. Ice cream can be stored in freezer up to 2 months. Let ice cream soften 1 hour in refrigerator before serving. Makes 1 quart, or enough for 4 servings.