In Bangladesh, Women Have Their Mysterious Charms--Snake Charms, That Is

DHAKA, Bangladesh — Women snake charmers, dabbling in witchcraft and performing before rapt audiences in villages throughout Bangladesh, keep alive the traditions of their ancient, nomadic community.

The Shapuria people, who travel in boats along the country’s vast network of rivers, enjoy a reputation for fearlessness, beautiful women and mysterious medical powers.

Snake charming, to Western eyes a cliched symbol of Eastern mysticism, is a way of life for the 100,000 Shapurias, who travel in convoys of up to 100 floating homes.

Women usually perform the central role, setting off from the boats each morning to visit scattered rural communities, sometimes walking long distances, while the men stay by the boats catching snakes, looking after the children or doing the housework.

Draws Crowds

Snake charming shows draw crowds. The display opens with a tune on a wooden flute--ostensibly to wake up the snake in its bamboo basket, but more probably to attract an audience.

With sinuous movements, the charmer approaches the basket and lifts the lid. The snake emerges, apparently mesmerized by the sound of the flute.

There is no fixed fee, but spectators usually pay more to watch deadly serpents such as cobras, explained Tota Miah, the chief of one of the 34 Shapuria tribes.

Songs and stories follow, usually describing the miraculous properties of snake venom or various herbs and talismans that the charmer offers for sale.

Magic Charms

Shapuria women say their magic charms can cure snakebites, mend broken love affairs and patch up family quarrels.

The charmers are rarely bitten by their snakes and face greater danger from amorous villagers, Miah said, adding, “Our customs do not allow marriage or sexual relations outside the tribes.”

Men may do the housework but women are by no means in charge. Wife beating is so common among the Shapurias that custom dictates that each floating home should have at least one small room where women are safe from abuse. And polygamy, for Shapuria men, is permitted.

“More wives means more money,” explained Ali Hossain, a member of Miah’s tribe.

Brave and Fierce

Wives discourage their husbands from taking a second bride, “but it seldom works,” said a woman named Malati.