Baci Has the Ingredients

Suppose you were asked to design a restaurant that couldn’t possibly fail in Los Angeles. What would you design?

If it were up to me, I’d opt for a pretty place in pastel colors with an open kitchen and enough sound insulation so diners wouldn’t have to shout. Ideally there would be a garden or a patio for outdoor dining. Prices of course, would be extremely moderate. As for the food, I’d throw in a bit of everything that Angelenos like: a little pizza, a touch of pasta, salads by the score. There would be hamburgers and barbecued ribs and just a hint of seafood. We’d serve wine by the glass and cups of cappuccino.

But I don’t have to imagine any more, for a restaurant remarkably like that opened just last week. Baci, 8267 Beverly Blvd., W. Hollywood, (213) 651-4776, has all of the above qualities. If it were up to me it would also have better food, but with dishes priced in the $6 range, it’s hard to quibble over overcooked pasta.