Impressive Titles : <i> When you want the royal treatment.</i>

Duke’s, 8909 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 652-9411. Style: Rock ‘n’ roll coffee shop where carbohydrate is king. Setting: Fake pine paneling plastered with black-and-white glossies, album covers and band posters. Recommended: Hamburger; corned beef hash; meat loaf. Cost per person: $5-$12.

Empress Pavilion, 988 N. Hill St. (in Bamboo Plaza, Chinatown), Los Angeles. (213) 617-9898. Style: Hong Kong-style Chinese, perfect for a royal banquet. Setting: Elegant urban barn. Recommended: Bird’s nest dumplings; pan-fried noodles with shrimp, fish, squid and scallops; fried water chestnut cakes. Cost per person: $8-$18.

King Dragon, 170 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 652-4187. Style: Fifties-style Cantonese chow that still reigns in the ‘90s. Setting: Pink leatherette booths; huge neon dragon. Recommended: Shrimp fried rice; moo goo gai pan ; sweet-and-sour pork. Cost per person: $10-$35.

Rex Il Ristorante, 617 S. Olive St., Los Angeles. (213) 627-2300. Style: Precious portions of princely pasta. Setting: Drop-dead Art Deco. Recommended: Ravioli di pesce (fish ravioli); baby salmon in sorrel sauce; veal with artichoke hearts. Cost per person: $50-$65.

Sweet Lady Jane, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 653-7145. Style: Devilish desserts that don’t cost a king’s ransom. Setting: Cozy tea room. Recommended: Chicken curry sandwich; lemon meringue tart; strawberry shortcake. Cost per person: $8-$12.