Herbal Hair Treatments Color and Curl Without Harshness of Chemicals

It seems more women than ever are looking for a non-chemical alternative to traditional hair care treatments. Some simply prefer the all-natural approach to beauty, some worry about questions of health.

The most recent report to raise the health issue was released in July when the National Cancer Institute reported findings that chemical hair dye might be linked to a higher risk of lymphoma.

The study was not conclusive nor specific enough to cause the Food and Drug Administration to require changes in existing products, or to require warning labels. According to FDA spokesman Brad Stone, no ingredients used in hair color today are known to be carcinogenic. The only FDA-required warnings are on dyes containing coal tar, which is a potential eye and skin irritant.

But many cautious consumers are turning to salons where “natural” color, perm and conditioning treatments are offered.

What to expect: Although chemical colors and perms provide the longest-lasting shades and curls, vegetable-based products can give good results. But there are limitations. Vegetable coloring agents, of which henna is the oldest and most popular, don’t effectively color gray. Salon owner and stylist Linda Kammins says not to expect good coverage from henna unless hair is less than 5% gray.

Makers of a new all-botanical hair color called Igora Botanic claim that it will be effective on hair that is up to 20% gray. But most people over 35 have more than 20% gray hair, says Gerd Schwarzkopf, vice president, Schwarzkopf hair products.

It is difficult to lighten hair without using harsh peroxide, but Kammins says “hair painting” can create highlights just as effectively. She literally paints the hair with a mixture of enzymes and bleach to remove the desired amount of color. Perms based on vegetable proteins last as long as traditional chemical perms, but they loosen up faster and can be repeated more frequently, says stylist Edward Anthony.

Sources:

* Mauro, 8306 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 653-4530. Barbra Streisand, Melanie Griffith, Don Johnson and Bette Midler have all relaxed in Mauro Spina’s chair, where he works essential oils and herbal elixirs into the scalp and hair. Spina custom-mixes ingredients (sage is his oft-used scalp cleanser, while orange-blossom petals mixed with marigold add sheen) for his clients. His herbal color process of choice is henna, but he will add such natural ingredients as coffee to create a rich brown stain. For blonds, a blend of chamomile, apple cider vinegar, lemon and avocado brings out natural highlights. Treatments and color processes range from $65 to $85.

* Linda Kammins Aromatherapy Salon, 848 N. La Cienega Blvd., Suite 204, Los Angeles. (310) 659-6257. Using the essential oils derivedfrom plants and super fatty vegetable oils, Kammins and Anna Organo administer treatments that cleanse the scalp, ridding it of flakes and restoring shine to the hair. Hennas and herb stains are used to achieve shades ranging from golden blond and red to darkest brown. Hair painting creates highlights even on dark hair, without peroxide. Before vegetable-based perms are done, the hair is prepared with essential oils (which sometimes takes up to three weeks), to strengthen the hair shaft, says Kammins. Prices range from $30 for oil treatments to $85 for hair painting combined with herb stains.

* Edward Anthony Hair Salon, 267 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 276-4346. Vegetable-protein perms have become Anthony’s specialty. The odor-free perms he uses are by VeBorne, a small Southern California-based hair-care firm. His 45-minute curling process is a favorite among pregnant women whose scalps often become sensitive to the salts and acids in traditional perms. The perm is so gentle that a color process can be performed the same day. Prices range from $100 to $150, depending on the length of the hair.

* Yah Works/Yours Truly Hair Care Salon, 5275 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles. (310) 285-0414. For men and women who wear dread locks, Jamaican or Jerusalem twists or tight braids of any variety. Since the scalp is not stimulated by daily brushing, dryness and buildup of pollutants is a frequent problem. The scalps of celebrities such as Vanessa Williams (who sports twists on TV’s “Melrose Place”) and singer Terrence Trent D’Arby are treated with blends of rosemary and glycerin.

* Amadeus, 435 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena. (818) 577-8446. Here, and at its day spa counterpart at the nearby Ritz-Carlton Hotel, natural treatments include Igora Botanic color ($41 to $130), Aveda aromatherapy scalp care ($35), and seaweed mud wraps to condition and add shine ($30). Owner Joe Wong explains that although it is not chemical free, Aveda’s Aromatherapy/Aromaology Self-Timing Perm with botanical extracts is gentle and doesn’t have a harsh odor ($70 to $100).