THE WINE LIST

The small, 22-wine list at Rondelli is unique in that almost all of the wines are available by the glass or the bottle--and the price for a glass of wine is, ounce for ounce, about what you’d pay for a bottle.

So if you ordered a glass of 1992 Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc for $5, you’d get about a fifth of the bottle, which has a price here of $25.

Jean-Luc Hitta, who is responsible for the wine program, says servings are about six ounces, and if the wine glasses are generously filled, you actually get a lower price by the glass than you do by the bottle. That’s because there are only about 4.2 servings of six ounces each in a bottle, and 4.2 times the $6.50 you’d pay for a glass of 1992 Byron Chardonnay is $27.30; the bottle costs $30.

You make out about equally well with the 1991 Navarro Gewurztraminer, which is $18 for a bottle and $4 for a glass.

A few of the wines, such as 1988 or 1990 Chassagne- Montrachet from Olivier Leflaive, are by the bottle only; in both cases, that’s $70.

Other wines with bottle and glass prices: 1992 Bonny Doon Clos du Gilroy, $17 and $3.50; 1990 Villa Mount Eden Merlot, $27 and $6; 1990 Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon, $30 and $6.50; 1989 Caymus Cabernet, $27 and $6.

Another plus: Most of the wines available by the glass are also available by the half glass (three ounces), at half the price.