In a Pickle : Regulars at Solley’s Say They Don’t Relish Switch to Jerry’s Famous Deli

WOODLAND HILLS — Panic was in the air at Solley’s Delicatessen, a Ventura Boulevard institution for 23 years.

It wasn’t the food--the matzo balls were light, the pastrami lean. And the chopped liver? “It’s to die for,” said Joey Hernandez, who Thursday was on one of her regular visits from her home in Camarillo.

What made this day different was that Hernandez and many other loyal patrons were just hearing that the deli would soon change hands.

The new owner will be Jerry’s Famous Deli, a Studio City-based restaurant that attracts a far younger--and arguably hipper--crowd.

Solley’s lunchtime customers, who yelled greetings across the restaurant to each other, were not shy about expressing their feelings.

“It’s so noisy over at that Jerry’s!” said Mickey Katz with disdain.

“We’ve been to Jerry’s,” said Iris Rothstein, a note of suspicion in her voice. “The service is very rude.”

Along with the complaints came sincere affection for Solley’s, an establishment that for many is much more than a place to dine.

“I call this my ‘Cheers,’ ” said Gene Tripp, who has been a regular customer for 12 years. “Everybody knows my name.”

Earlier this week, representatives of Jerry’s--which recently issued public stock--announced they would acquire the original Solley’s and a newer one in Sherman Oaks from original owner Sol Zide. The acquisitions will give Jerry’s a total of seven restaurants.

On Thursday, Solley’s general manager Jan Miller moved from table to table, reassuring longtime customers. “Everybody on staff is staying,” he said to Katz and her son, Barry, both of whom have been coming to the restaurant since it opened.

“There will be some changes, of course,” Miller added, out of earshot from the Katzes. The menu will mirror Jerry’s and the restaurant will probably undergo other adjustments.

The fate of Solley’s homey decor, including the “Day in the Life of a Bagel” photo essay that covers one wall, is not yet decided.

“We’ll adjust,” said Miller, who has worked at the restaurant for eight years. “The one thing that won’t change is how we treat the customers. If you have a happy customer, that is a customer who is coming back.”

Miller also had to reassure the staff.

“I do not know what is going to happen,” said Pio Munoz, 28, as he prepared vegetables in the kitchen for the meatloaf mix. He has been working at Solley’s since he was 17.

Miller rushed over and put his hand on the cook’s shoulder. “You are not leaving,” Miller said. “I guarantee that.”

Amid talk about the food and homeyness of Solley’s, it was the possibility of staff layoffs that raised the most concerns from customers.

“They want you to be comfortable here,” said Alan Rothstein, who owns a nearby packing service and comes almost daily. “It’s like family.”

Of course, family members can needle each other.

“I hope Jerry’s has better air-conditioning,” said longtime customer Mark Jones to Miller.

“I got the air-conditioning on, you big baby,” Miller said, not missing a step as he walked on by.

For movie director and writer Jones, Solley’s has special significance. “I got the idea for ‘Leprechaun’ right here,” he said proudly of the 1992 horror flick that has already spawned two sequels.

More momentous have been the several romances and marriages spawned at the restaurant. Waitress Sue Chamian met her husband there. She was more philosophical than most about the coming changes.

“We’re all creatures of habit, we like things to stay the same,” she said. “I’m curious to see what will happen.”

Chamian looked across to a nearby booth where a young man was sitting alone. She greeted him warmly and his face lit up with a big smile. She started to ask him if he had heard about the change in ownership, but then quickly segued into pleasantries as he continued to smile and shyly wave.

“He’s a little slow,” Chamian said quietly. “He comes every day, always with the smile. His father came in once, gave me $10 and started crying. He thanked us for watching out for his son.”

Chamian once again waved at the man and began walking toward him to take his order.