1996 Domaine Tempier Bandol, Provence (About $18)

Championed by its American importer, Kermit Lynch, Domaine Tempier has been virtually the house wine at the celebrated Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse for years. Traditionally a blend of Provencal grapes dominated by dark-berried Mourvedre, Bandol was once shipped all over the world from the small port near Toulon that gives the wine its name. Domaine Tempier recalls that history in its label: an antique frigate encircled by fleurs-de-lis. The domaine’s single vineyard Bandols, “La Tourtine” and “La Migoua,” show how great a wine this small appellation can produce. This normale, however, is one of the best in recent years, rich in extract, many-faceted, with a taste of the garrigue or wild herbs.

Domaine owner Lulu Peyraud proudly serves the cool young rouge with her splendid bouillabaisse--and just about anything else.