Try Herbs to Spice Up Low-Fat Cuisine

A year or so ago, the New York Times broke a story that was headlined “A Pepper a Day Keeps the Germs Away.” It seems that researchers from Cornell University had concluded that the reason certain cultures (primarily those in hot climates) have traditionally used lots of hot spices like garlic, peppers and ginger was to kill bacteria and other organisms that cause disease. The researchers weren’t suggesting that the people who lived in these areas over the centuries actually knew anything about the protective effect of spices, but that somehow this was an evolutionary process.

While it turns out that some spices--particularly garlic, onions, allspice, oregano, thyme, cinnamon, tarragon and cumin--may actually kill bacteria in a test tube, this finding apparently doesn’t have much practical application.

The real reasons people eat what they do are complex and interactive. It would be foolish and dangerous to think that spices could preserve meats or kill the germs in food that has spoiled. Nonetheless, the use of spices can play an important health role, which has nothing to do with microorganisms.

In the war against dietary fat, one of the first casualties is taste. Fat, in addition to carrying calories and artery-clogging material, is also largely responsible for the flavor and texture of most foods. One of the early criticisms of low-fat cooking was that it was time-consuming and then, after a lot of effort, ended up being dry and lifeless.

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Fortunately, that does not have to be the case. The food manufacturers and gourmet chefs have taught us a great deal about low-fat recipes, and the bookstores are full of wonderful low-fat cookbooks. One of the best tricks of all is to use herbs and spices in ways that bring out the flavors of foods without adding anything you don’t want to your diet, like fat and calories.

Fresh herbs work best. You could grow your own, but you can usually find them in the grocery stores. The trick is not to buy more than you can use up within a few days.

If you do need to store fresh herbs, wrap them in damp paper towels, inside plastic bags, and they will keep in the refrigerator for about five days. Parsley and basil, which are sold in little bouquets, can be put stem down in a glass jar with enough cold water to cover about an inch of the stems. Put a plastic bag over the top and fasten with a rubber band or use a jar with a screw top. Be sure to change the water every two to three days.

When you are ready to use the herbs, blot them dry and snip into small pieces. When you cook with fresh herbs, add them toward the end of the cooking process so that their flavor is not lost.

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Dried herbs and spices will obviously keep longer and can be added sooner in the cooking process because their flavor is more intense. Just be careful not to over-season.

To keep dried seasonings from losing their flavors and delicate aromas, they should be stored airtight and not exposed to extreme heat or light. In general, you should not keep them more than six months, but if this seems unrealistic, refrigerate them as soon as you buy them. This is especially true for spice blends like chili and curry powder. Marking them with a purchase date may help you to keep track of what’s old and new.

Here’s a list of some common herbs and spices that always help to jazz up your food.

* Basil. Essential to Italian cooking, this herb blends well with tomatoes and garlic. It complements meat, poultry, shellfish and many vegetables. The leaves can be used as a flavorful salad ingredient.

* Bay leaf. Usually sold dry with the brittle leaves commonly used whole, it also is available in a powder. If you use whole leaves, be sure to add at the beginning of cooking so they can release their flavor, and take them out before serving. Add bay leaf to soups and stews, and tomato and other sauces.

* Caraway. Most commonly used in bread, but also good in main dishes and salads. Try it in potato salad and coleslaw, cucumber salad, and meatloaf, or over cooked noodles.

* Cardamom. Both Scandinavian and Indian cuisines rely heavily on this warm, sweet spice. It’s excellent with fruit, gingerbread and Swedish meatballs. Goes well with rice, sweet vegetables like winter squash, pumpkin and sweet potatoes.

* Cayenne. A hot red pepper made from grinding up red chiles, it is frequently used in Mexican, Indian, Chinese and Cajun recipes plus all kinds of marinades and barbecue sauces. A little bit of this goes a very long way, so be careful.

* Celery seed. This offers a mild flavor that is good in split pea soup, fish chowders, tomato sauces and soups, hot or cold potato dishes, and poultry stuffing.

* Cilantro (coriander leaf). Also known as Chinese parsley, it is pungent and often an acquired taste for cooks and diners alike. Widely used in Mexican, Indian and Chinese cooking, it is usually available fresh.

* Coriander seed. This seed tastes quite different from cilantro. It is pungently spicy, yet sweet and slightly fruity. The spice is often used in curries, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes as well as baked goods and is great in soup, salad dressing and meats.

* Cumin. This is a component of chili powder and curry powder. Commonly used in Mexican, Middle Eastern and Indian dishes, it is a delicious complement to beef and lamb, cooked carrots, cabbage, chickpeas, lentils and other legumes.

* Marjoram. Like oregano, but this spice is more delicate. It’s great in tomato sauce, with cooked legumes, squash, potatoes, fish and most meats.

* Oregano. A traditional Italian flavoring also used in Greek and Mexican dishes, it’s an excellent addition to most cooked vegetables, soups, salad dressings and sauces. It’s also great on grilled fish and poultry.

* Pepper. This common spice comes in many varieties. Grind it fresh from peppercorns and use on just about anything.

* Tarragon. A strong herb, it can become overwhelming, so use sparingly in sauces, soups, meat and vegetables. It has a slightly licorice taste.

* Thyme. A versatile herb, which is essential in Creole recipes, it can be used on vegetables, in soups and sauces, and on meats and poultry.

Dr. Sheldon Margen is professor of public health at UC Berkeley; Dale A. Ogar is managing editor of the UC Berkeley Wellness Letter. They are the authors of several books including “The Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition.”