1997 Fattoria di Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico, Tuscany (About $18)

A gorgeous Chianti from one of the best vintages ever. Felsina’s Berardenga shows how far Chianti has come from the thin, dried-out wines of the appellation’s inglorious past. The 1997 Felsina is deep garnet in color and shot through with the taste of luscious black cherries; it’s a Chianti with enough structure to age, but drinking beautifully right now. It shows once again how extraordinary the 1997 vintage was in Tuscany. I can only wonder, if the normale is this good, what is the riserva going to be like when it’s released? Watch out.

Available at fine wine shops. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Vinifera Imports, (805) 546-1900.