In Venice, Lilly’s Cozy Patio Cafe Exudes an Aura of France

Lilly’s French Cafe & Bar has just bloomed in the same Venice block as Joe’s restaurant, making this stretch of Abbot Kinney a destination for Francophiles of every ilk. More casual and less expensive than Joe’s, Lilly’s is more cafe than restaurant, set in a long, narrow space that opens onto a two-tiered patio. At night, it’s dark and cozy, lit by candles, yet when you look up, you can see the stars overhead.

As we trail the hostess to our table, I catch the sound of French and the scent of Galoise from tables in passing. In the lower part of the patio, a distinctly bohemian crowd sits around a long table talking, smoking, drinking wine. It looks like a scene from a French film.

The food, too, is French. I start with a delicious, fluffy flamiche, a round tart of goat cheese and leeks from northern France. The swatch of greens beside it are dressed in a pert vinaigrette that reminds me how good this basic salad dressing can be. The duck pa^te, though, is too lean to be really flavorful, but I love the sparkling cubes of Madeira gelee beside it. I’m not one to ever pass up bourride de poissons, this one a delicate fish soup of sea bass, rock cod, monkfish and tiger shrimp in a light broth scented with garlic and saffron. It comes with a crock of rouille, the garlicky mayonnaise colored with red peppers. Roasted rack of lamb is set off by an irresistible potato gratin and a confit of garlic. Even the boring-sounding poulet a l’Estragon, chicken breast with tarragon, is beautifully cooked. What’s not to like? It’s a grilled free-range chicken breast with red creamer potatoes, haricots verts, and an understated fresh tarragon sauce.

And for dessert, there’s floating island, that childhood dessert of meringue “islands” floating in a custard sea that conjures up your (or somebody else’s) French grandmother with every bite.

Bring a sweater and luxuriate in eating outside at this new French cafe. Note that Lilly’s is open every day for lunch and dinner.

BE THERE

Lilly’s French Cafe & Bar, 1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; (310) 314-0004. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Appetizers $6 to $10; main courses $10 to $18. Valet parking.