2003 Copain Viognier Broken Leg Vineyard

Here’s a wonderful Viognier from Copain Wines in Anderson Valley, Calif. The grapes come from Broken Leg Vineyard, which takes its name from the broken leg sustained by grape grower Steve Williams when he was planting vines on the steeply canted hillside.

The 2003 has loads of varietal character. Close your eyes and you’d think you were drinking a Condrieu from the northern Rhone with its beguiling scent of flowers and ripe peaches and rich, mouth-filling texture.

Drink it as an aperitif, or with summery salads and light main courses. I like it with an omelet or a frittata. If you happen to have a black truffle on hand, all the better. Roughly chop it and throw it in with the eggs, and soft scramble them. Eat with toast and gulps of Viognier.

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Quick swirl

Region: Anderson Valley

Price: About $28

Style: Ripe and

lush

Food it goes with: With summery salads and light main courses

Where you find it: Lazy Acres Market in Santa Barbara, (805) 564-4410; Mission Wines in South Pasadena (626) 403-9463; Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731

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-- S. Irene Virbila