THE GLUTTON

Each spring, the Glutton solemnly renews her vow to eat more delicious smoked meats. And any serious L.A. barbecue odyssey has to begin in the Crenshaw district.

Inexpensive and much loved by locals, Woody’s (3446 W. Slauson Ave.) makes good barbecued sliced beef and terrific, deeply smoked beef sausage, although the ribs -- both beef and pork -- are tough and the sauce is too ketchup-y. (As for chicken sausage, Woody’s faces some serious competition from Mama’s Chicken & Market just down the street, but that’s a column unto itself). At Phillips Barbecue (2619 Crenshaw Blvd.), with its distinctive barn-like exterior, the meat is well cooked and the sauce strikes a delicate balance between peppery robustness and tangy sweetness.

But down the street in what looks like an old Taco Bell, the Glutton found barbecue nirvana. Tasty Q Bar-B-Que’s (2959 Crenshaw Blvd.) parking lot features a large, black smoker where meat is cooked until it’s falling-off-the-bone tender and imbued with a smokiness so powerful it will embed itself into your soul. For $8.50, you get a miniature rib dinner that’s anything but miniature (and should always be eaten with their note-perfect baked beans). For gluttony on a more massive scale, bring in a turkey and pay Tasty Q to deep fry it.

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