Jonathan Gold restaurant review: Fishing With Dynamite

On the “Platters” menu: The Queen Mary, with nine oysters, four clams, eight shrimp, 10 mussels, 1/2 lobster and 1/2 Dungeness crab, serving 3-4, for $75.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

On the “Old School” menu: Maryland blue crab cake, with in-house dill pickles, whole-grain mustard remoulade, for $16.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

There are only 33 seats inside Fishing With Dynamite, making it suitable for small parties and welcoming to reservations.   (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

On the “Cocktails” menu; Original Gangster, with boulevardier, white dog, Aperol, Vya sweet vermouth and grapefruit, for $12  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

On the “New School” menu: Hamachi, with ponzu, avocado, red radish, serrano and shiso, for $16.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

Fishing With Dynamite is located a few blocks from the beach.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

On the “After School” menu: pretzel and chocolate bread pudding, with salted caramel sauce and house-made ice cream, for $8.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

On the “After School” menu: Key lime pie, with graham-cracker crust and kaffir lime meringue, for $7  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)

A company hat worn by a member of the staff.  (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)