Newsletter: Counter: Hollywood dining, butcher shops, taco missions
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If you’re still recovering from a high-strung NBA Finals and last week’s insane heat wave, maybe a civilized dinner at Paley might be just the thing. The subject of Jonathan Gold’s latest review, this new Hollywood restaurant is a swank small-plates restaurant, named for the guy who founded CBS. Probably a fitting place to catch up on a crazy week in the news cycle too. Raise a martini to the ghost of Walter Cronkite while you read about “Brexit”; you’ll probably need that drink.
In other news, Curtis Stone’s new project — a butcher shop, of all things — opens next week, and we talk to him at length about his views on, well, meat.
Esdras Ochoa, the chef behind the newly opened Mexican barbecue restaurant Salazar, talks about his early days as a Mormon missionary and how his mission has changed over the years to one of bordertown tacos.
There’s also news of a new Irvine food hall, an Afghani dumpling crawl and a look at the current rye whiskey trend.
Where to eat now in Hollywood
This week, Jonathan reviews Paley, the grand new restaurant in the lofty space that was once the CBS Studio (the restaurant is named for CBS founder William S. Paley). There, he finds much to like: fire-driven small plates cooking from chef Greg Bernhardt, who previously cooked with Ludo Lefebvre and at Church & State.
Esdras Ochoa came up with the “vampiro,” a tortilla stuffed with carne asada, garlic sauce and cheese.
The taco missionary
Way before Esdras Ochoa started making tacos at Mexicali Taco & Co., back when it was a stand on First and Beaudry, and long before he opened Salazar, his new Mexican barbecue restaurant, he was making tacos for the folks in a tiny town in Washington State — back when he was a Mormon missionary. We check out how he changed his mission, to one of bordertown tacos and Sonora-style live-fire cooking.
Curtis Stone’s new restaurant — and butcher shop
If you know Australian chef Curtis Stone only from his vegetable-driven tasting-menu restaurant Maude (or from television), you might be momentarily surprised by his new project: a butcher shop and restaurant he’s opening next week with his brother Luke called Gwen. (Yes, it’s named for their other grandmother.) We get the back story.
Irvine’s new food hall
The city of Irvine has a lot more than a very good UC school, and it’s about to get more: a big new food hall near John Wayne Airport. Opening later this summer, Trade will feature tacos, fried chicken and banh mi sandwiches, among other things.
An Afghani dumpling crawl
Many Angelenos have perfected their San Gabriel Valley xiaolongbao dumpling crawl, but what about one featuring aushak, the chive-filled dumplings from Afghanistan? Food writer Linda Burum finds five Afghani restaurants that specialize in the delicious dish.
The rye-volution
Last week, we considered what to do with rye flour, now having a moment. This week, spirits writer Lesley Jacobs Solmonson considers the current state of rye whiskey — whose moment has been going on for a few years now.
Your “City of Gold” reminder: It’s playing. Maybe go see it. Maybe don’t go hungry, which brings us to…
Jonathan Gold’s 101
Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, the authoritative annual guide to local dining, is online for subscribers.
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