Jonathan Gold reviews Felix

Filetto pizza with mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and basil at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

Evan Funke is the chief sfoglino at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

Trofie pasta with pesto Genovese and Parmigiano-Reggiano at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

Sfincione Sicilian focaccia with rosemary, sea salt and olive oil at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

Pappardelle at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

Homemade orecchiette at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

A portrait of Italian actress Sophia Loren is painted on a wall at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

Evan Funke is the chief sfoglino at Felix Trattoria in Venice. The restaurant has a temperature-controlled room where the pasta is handmade.

A temperature-controlled room inside Felix Trattoria in Venice is where the restaurant’s pasta is handmade.

An Evan Funke figurine keeps watch at Felix Trattoria in Venice.

A temperature-controlled room inside Felix Trattoria in Venice is where the restaurant’s pasta is handmade.