Looking for birds-of-paradise in Indonesia

Many of the small islands off the coast of Misool feature tranquil lagoons that are perfect for kayaking.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

A traditional Indonesian sailboat used by SeaTrek Sailing Adventures docks off the coast of Misool.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

Live-aboard ships like this one from SeaTrek Sailing Adventures are a popular way to explore Raja Ampat.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

A traditional Indonesian sailboat from SeaTrek Sailing Adventures cruises into the sunset off Misool.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

Visitors walk down a pier to Arborek Tourism Village, a small Papuan town on the island of Arborek.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

Simple overwater bungalows like this one in Arborek Tourism Village are a popular pick for budget travelers.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

Basic beach bungalows in Arborek Tourism Village go for less than $25 a night.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

This hut on Waigeo Island is a replica of the one used by British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace in 1860 when he was studying the birds-of-paradise.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

A red bird-of-paradise clings to a popular mating branch.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

Residents of Arborek Tourism Village keep traditional Papuan dances alive.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

Residents of Arborek Tourism Village play traditional Papuan music on the beach.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )

Dian Gafar, a guide with SeaTrek Sailing Adventures, cools off in the waters off the coast of Salawati.   (Mark Johanson/Chicago Tribune )